18.4 miles ascent 2319′ descent 2396′
Our final day of the West Highland Way began early (6:45) at the local coffee shop in Kinlochleven.
Leaving Kinlochleven we crossed the River Leven on its way toward Loch Leven.
Soon the narrow, rocky path branched off into the white-trunked birch trees where a steep climb began. Wild rhododendron bushes punctuated the trail as we progressed up the hill.
Beautiful views of Loch Leven and the conical Pap of Glencoe presented us with a good excuse for a quick rest.
The single-track path joined a military road which made its way through the gorge of Allt Nathrach.
Beyond the gorge and after crossing the summit of Lairigmor, the rugged landscape opened up to a wide, rather desolate glen. We passed the occasional ruins of small cottages which Highlanders would have used as they grazed their cattle in a bygone era.
Scotttish history was on display once again as we passed a huge, stone cairn marking the spot at which the victorious clan MacDonald gave up their chase of clan Argyll after the Battle of Inverlochy in 1645.
A rambling trail wound along through the beautiful glen and its open grazing land. More sheep are found there these days, rather than the cattle of old.
We dipped down into green woods and gurgling streams, as the cool morning turned into a very hot afternoon.
The trail had become a wider, gravel, vehicle track which was quite demanding, even on our trail-hardened feet. Then, a bittersweet moment, as Fort William and the end of the trail became visible in the distant valley. Good hikes should never end!
Emerging from a tree plantation supporting regrowth of the regional forests, we met the paved road that would take us into Fort William.
We began to anticipate the conclusion of the West Highland Way, only to discover that the official end of the trail had been shifted a couple kilometers further.
Continuing toward the new finish line, we walked through Fort William’s central district and were pleasantly surprised to encounter many fellow hikers whom we had met along our route.
We finally arrived at the West Highland Way’s official finish, where a statue of “the sore-footed man” had been placed on a nearby bench. Obviously, a picture opportunity! (Sore feet are a fitting reminder of the rock-hard military roads in the area.)
We backtracked to our accommodations for the night, the Distillery Guest House.
The following morning we climbed on the train to Glasgow, which was packed with other tired hikers. These hikers, many of whom we had met on the trail, were also celebrating the completion of their amazing (and very enjoyable) treks.
What a wonderful week of walking! Each day presented a different landscape to appreciate and enjoy. We were extremely fortunate to have wonderful weather whenever we were on the trail, with the only rain falling at night or on our single rest day. While on the train we were able to review our walk as we had glimpses of hikers walking the paths we had only walked two days previously. We felt this trek contained a month’s worth of connection to the Scottish hills, dales and surroundings rather than just the actual few days. Scotland and its people are lovely and I hope to return for another great adventure.