12.4 miles

Just as we were leaving Kirkby Stephen a large herd of sheep descended upon us. The sheep were controlled primarily by three brilliant border collies, followed by two men on 4x4s. It was a pleasure to watch. (Full disclosure: I had left my border collie, Panda, at home in California – she often hikes with me in the California Sierras.)

Border collies herding sheep

At one point, as I turned around to look at the distant hills behind us, the Nine Standards could be seen on the far ridge. If I had not known about them, I don’t think that I would have spotted the nine small dots on the horizon.

As I climbed yet another stile, I wondered how many I had climbed by that time. The remainder of the trip would have at least a couple hundred more.

Climbing one of many stiles

The C2C path led us to Smardale Bridge on Smardale Fell which was in the center of a prehistoric area. An ancient settlement, Severals Village, had existed at this crossroad of a stream and a road, on the hillsides on both sides of this stream. The site has not yet been excavated, but is thought to be one of the most significant, archeological finds in England.

Smardale Bridge and location of Severals Village

We entered an area near Orton Scar with a multitude of stone fences which defined sheep pastures. The countryside was dotted with sheep, barns and wildflowers.

Sheep pastures near Orton Scar

One mile from Orton we came upon the prehistoric Gamelands Stone Circle. One of the largest stone circles in Cumbria, artifacts have been found in the area dating to about 1800 to 1400 BC. Unfortunately, the stones have been knocked over and seven were entirely removed by farmers over the past 100 years.

Gamelands Stone Circle near Orton

Carrying on to Orton, we were joined by three loose ponies who were very friendly.

Loose ponies near Orton

I soon arrived at my B&B for the night, the Barn House, a beautiful B&B in the countryside on the outskirts of Orton; they even put chocolates on the pillows! I was immediately seated and presented with a cup of tea and cakes by my host, Lillian. (I really do enjoy this lovely tradition of afternoon tea!) A couple from the French Alps were also staying there with friends, having just hiked the Lake District. These interesting hikers joined me for tea.

Barn House B&B
Tea in the conservatory at Barn House

I walked into Orton to meet the Vermont girls and to do a little sightseeing. Orton was celebrating the Scarecrow Festival, which explained the many scarecrows we saw placed around the village. In the 14th-century farmers used to use children to scare away the birds from the crops, however, due to the plague of 1348 there were not enough children to carry out the task. Instead, farmers replaced the children with decorated stick figures to do this job, hence “scarecrows”.

Scarecrow in boat in Orton

The All Saints Church in Orton, dates back to the 12th-century. The bell tower was added in the 16th-century.

All Saints Church, Orton

The guests from Barn House joined us at the George Hotel for an evening of good food and laughter, sharing trail stories.

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